House Projects
Saturday, June 11, 2016
Saturday, May 14, 2016
How to Wire an RV Receptacle
http://www.electrical-online.com/how-to-wire-an-rv-receptacle/
Author:
Terry Peterman
Thousands of people enjoy the ownership and the use of recreational
vehicles; from small affordable tent trailers or compact travel trailers,
to large motorhomes for the luxury camping experience in high end R.V. resorts
and suitable for a full-time nomadic lifestyle. When you are parked in
most RV parks or campgrounds, power is usually available to plug in the RVs to
the appropriate outlet to provide power to charge the batteries, and to run the
not so essential appliances such as televisions, toasters, and to power our
computers, hairdryers, coffee makers, and even air-conditioners.
The problem comes when
the unit is not in use, and is parked and put away ready for the next
opportunity to get out and enjoy the RV lifestyle. Some are parked away
in storage facilities which may or may not offer power to keep the unit plugged
in. Some people are fortunate to have the room and are allowed to park
their units near their home on their own property. It is a good idea to
keep the unit plugged into power when not in use, especially in colder climates
where a discharged battery or batteries can be destroyed by freezing
temperatures. In most cases a 15A, 125V circuit is enough to provide the
basic power required keeping the batteries charged up but when you want to
prepare the unit for a trip, it’s nice to have full use of all the on-board
appliances such as the furnace, refrigerator, and possibly the air
conditioner. This is when you need to have the proper connection for
full, or at least partial use of all the on-board conveniences. Many of
the large units now need a 50A, 125/250V connection for the full electrical
service to the unit, but the majority of your RVs need a 30A, 125V
supply. Even the larger units will have the option to run on 30A where
50A is not available.
In this post (which
includes a step-by-step video and full article), I am going to guide you
through the installation of a dedicated, 30A, 125V R.V. receptacle so that you
may have the luxury of being able to provide power to your stored RV when
parked, hopefully in a location close enough to the unit to avoid the use of
extension cords.
In this situation I am
using my electrical demonstration wall located inside my attached garage to
complete the project. This location will work for me when I have my
motorhome here at our house as we prepare to move in or out of the unit as
required. I can park out front of the house and the power supply cable will
reach this outlet quite comfortably.
Location for the RV Receptacle:
The first step is to
decide on a location for the receptacle, and then decide how you are going to
supply the outlet. Consider where the service panel is, or the closest
sub-panel. Then check to see if the panel has the room to accommodate
another circuit, and the ampacity to supply the new load. Once you have
picked a good location for the box, and determined how you are going to run the
supply wire to the panel, the next step is a trip to the electrical aisle of a
home improvement store to gather supplies. You will need:
Materials Required to Wire an RV Receptacle:
1. The correct manufacturer, size, and style of the
required 30A, single pole breaker.
2. A sufficient length of cable, and the appropriate type of cable for your particular installation. In my case here, standard NMD-90 cable will work, and #10/2 will be what is needed.
3. Cable connectors for each end to enter the panel and the junction box
4. An RV receptacle. In this situation, a flush mount 30A, 125V, (NEMA TT or RV-30R).
5. A 4×4 metal junction / outlet box
6. The correct size mounting / cover plate
7. Cable staples or straps, screws, etc.
8. The standard set of electrician’s tools, screwdrivers, wire-strippers, hammer, electrical meter, personal protective equipment, etc.
2. A sufficient length of cable, and the appropriate type of cable for your particular installation. In my case here, standard NMD-90 cable will work, and #10/2 will be what is needed.
3. Cable connectors for each end to enter the panel and the junction box
4. An RV receptacle. In this situation, a flush mount 30A, 125V, (NEMA TT or RV-30R).
5. A 4×4 metal junction / outlet box
6. The correct size mounting / cover plate
7. Cable staples or straps, screws, etc.
8. The standard set of electrician’s tools, screwdrivers, wire-strippers, hammer, electrical meter, personal protective equipment, etc.
2.
Steps to Wiring an RV Receptacle:
1. Once the box
location is determined, and you’ve found a path to get your cable to the panel,
the first step is to run the cable and mount the box. In my situation I
am showing a fairly typical situation of an installation that may occur on a
plywood covered wall inside a garage. The plywood will be screwed or
nailed on to the wall studs so it can be removed where needed in order to run
the cable through the walls to the panel location. I am bringing the
cable in to the back of the box so that no cable is exposed on the wall surface
thus requiring mechanical protection, or cable suitable for surface installation
in a dry location such as BX or armoured cable.
2. Run the cable
through the wall studs behind the plywood to the panel location.
3. Mount the box
so that a hole can be drilled in to the plywood between studs, but close enough
to a stud to allow wood screws to secure the box firmly to the wall. The
hole will need to be large enough to accommodate the cable connector when
installed. Strip the appropriate amount of the cable jacket (6- 8”) and
insert the cable into the back of the box though the connector and tighten the
lock nut and the connector screws. Ensure you tighten the cable connector
down on the external jacket and not on the wires. Then put the box in
place and secure to the wall with wood screws.
4. Wrap the bare
ground wire clockwise around the box ground screw 180 degrees and tighten the
screw. Leave the cable long enough length beyond the grounding screw so
the wire can reach the ground terminal on the receptacle and tighten
firmly. Strip ¾” of insulation from the neutral (white) and the hot
(black) conductors and insert them in the identified terminals on the
receptacle and tighten the terminal screws on each terminal.
5. Now mount the
receptacle to the cover plate with the machine screws provided and then mount
the plate to the box. Take care not to pinch the wires between the plate
and the box when pushing the excess wire in to the box.
6. At the panel,
pick a knock-out that is easy to work with to allow the cable to enter the
panel. With the main breaker, or the breaker that feeds the sub-panel
off, and checked that it is off with your electrical meter, mount the cable
connector into the knock-out. Strip enough cable jacket so that you have
plenty of wire length to reach the farthest corner of the panel. Then insert
your cable and tighten the cable connector, again ensuring that it tightens
down of the jacket of the cable and not on the exposed individual conductors.
7. Now connect the
bare ground wire to an available ground lug mounted to the panel tub in the
back of the panel.
8. Next connect
the neutral conductor to the neutral buss bar in the panel.
9. Then mount the
breaker in the next available spot in the panel and push firmly in place.
Then connect the black wire to the breaker terminal.
10. Remove the
appropriate breaker knock-out in the panel cover to accommodate the new breaker
position.
11. Install the
panel cover. It’s a good idea to shut off each individual breaker in the
panel before turning the main feed breaker back on. Then turn on each
breaker one at a time, including the newly installed circuit breaker.
12. Now test your
work. Using your meter, and setting it to the appropriate AC voltage
scale, insert one meter lead into the hot and the other lead into the neutral
slot of the receptacle. You should get somewhere around 120V. Then
check from the hot slot to the ground terminal. Again you should read
somewhere around 120V. Now check from neutral to ground. The
reading should 0 volts.
13. You are now
ready to plug in your RV and test the electrical components of the RV for
proper operation.
Having a proper outlet
to plug in your RV while storing it at home, or while preparing the unit for
the next camping trip will help eliminate a lot of frustrating problems that
can occur due to dead batteries, and it will be very convenient to have
everything in working order prior to hitting the open road for your next RV
adventure.
Don’t feel comfortable
tackling this project yourself? Remember: Can’t do it yourself? Get help
from a qualified electrical contractor/
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